What does Roussillon, one of France’s most extensive wine regions, signify for the average wine enthusiast? For many, it evokes thoughts of warmth and serves as a source for robust red wines at affordable prices, largely due to its cooperative model and established trade practices that cater to large-scale production.
The region is also known for its naturally sweet wines, though that’s a topic for another discussion. Additionally, the impact of climate change comes to mind, prompting some to question whether Roussillon could be a promising area for future winemaking.
However, what many may not realize is that within this vast vineyard—producing around 76 million bottles annually—certain wines have achieved such acclaim that they grace the finest tables worldwide and are notoriously hard to procure. Who are these trailblazers challenging the traditional norms of the region?
Revolutiuonary wine makers from Roussilon
First among them are those who have laid the groundwork over time and now serve as foundational figures in Roussillon. Gérard Gauby stands out; he moved to Calce in the 1980s with an innovative vision (aside from Parc de la Côte). His organic wines since 1999 have become essential among top-tier producers and have inspired others in natural winemaking like Jean-Philippe Padi and Olivier Pithonet. Although currently managed by François Baul and Yann Mazabraud after acquiring the estate from Gauby’s family, their legacy continues.
Latour de France
Next is Hervé Bizeul, who transitioned from being a sommelier in Paris to becoming an influential figure at Vingrau’s stunning greenhouse (where talents like Razungles and Gardi s thrive). He introduced an internationally appealing wine style that has found success particularly in Asian markets. In Latour-de-France, Marjorie and Stéphane Gallet have emerged with their iconic Roc des Anges project focused on elegance; their whites exhibit a delightful interplay with oxidation while their reds showcase grenache’s potential with aging.
Latour-de-France also boasts notable figures like Cyril Fhal alongside Espira de l’Agly’s Danjou brothers, who consistently impress with innovative wines redefining regional characteristics. According to Guillaume Geniez from Caves Maillol in Perpignan—a new cornerstone alongside Caves du Roussillon—this terroir allows exploration across all wine styles.
Latour de France – Fresh Talent
This environment has attracted fresh talent: eager individuals filled with inspiration and determination. With land prices remaining reasonable compared to other regions experiencing speculation surges, these newcomers craft desirable wines that are often organic and elegantly packaged at accessible price points. Romain Torredemer and Thomas Mangin exemplify this trend; having settled in Vingrau since 2022, Thomas notes the region’s transition phase filled with untapped potential.
New Creations, foreign talents
Their creations are already winning over discerning palates (try their orange Orage cuvée). Jessica Albero’s Zulu label launched in 2015 deserves mention too; she collaborates with local winemakers fostering a collective spirit within Roussillon according to Caves Maillol staffers’ praise.
Foreign enthusiasts like Tom Lubbe (Matassa) have also contributed significantly by embracing local terroirs. Jess runs her own four-hectare estate called La Recerca since 2018 alongside Laurent Pujol where they produce vibrant raspberry-colored juices along with maceration wines or electric whites celebrating Roussillon’s rich diversity.
Roussilon Wine Guide
Now comes the challenge of spreading awareness about these exceptional offerings because as Thomas Mangin astutely observes: it would be absurd for such outstanding wines to go unnoticed—they need visibility!
Domaine Gauby – Les Calcinaires 2022
This is a humorous take on wine from Roussillon, crafted once more by the esteemed Gerard Gauby. Despite the estate’s recent sale, this signature vintage continues to impress. The entry-level offering features a Mourvèdre-Cinsault blend that delivers exceptional value for money. It’s silky and intense with an irresistible salinity—welcome to the realm of outstanding yet affordable Roussillon wines. You can find it at your local wine store for around 22€.
Rouge-Gorge Cyrill Phal Col du Loup 2022
This wine presents a secretive and somewhat reserved character. However, Cyr Phalen stands out as a visionary in modern Roussillon viticulture. This Grenache vintage embodies his philosophy of creating wines that are immensely elegant, fresh, and easy to drink, striking a perfect balance between restraint and exuberance. Enjoy it for around 70€
Domaine du Roc des Anges Unic 2022
It has emerged as a rising star in Vingrau. These wines captivate with their delicacy, elegance, and firmness under Marjorie Gallet’s guidance. Unic defies the traditional heavy image of Roussillon wines; instead, it evokes Burgundy’s Pinot Noir with its poetic color—a tribute to the light of Latour-de-France. On the palate, it achieves perfect balance; closing your eyes brings thoughts of an elegant evening dress while dreaming of Grenache paired with roasted lamb. The discerning among us might choose to cellar this vibrant wine for five or six years to fully appreciate its complexity. You can find it for around 25€ at you local wine store.
Clos des Constellations 2022 – Orion
Orion is an expressive black Grenache (80%) that envelops you like a warm embrace from the South—a rich yet refined wine from Lesquerde’s exceptional terroir nestled in the Fenouilides mountains. Sebastien Hoerner and his wife Julia are revitalizing the village cellar for an ambitious project aimed at enhancing local winemaking. You can buy it at 35€.
Domaine Danjou-Danessy – Roboul 2022
Espira-de-Agly’s estate presents quite a dilemma: which vintage deserves special mention? This address redefines standards within its stunning limestone terroir characterized by breathtaking cliffs. The accessible vintage showcases an almost translucent appearance while being rich yet complex with spicy notes like white pepper layered over red fruit aromas and surprising hints reminiscent of rooibos tea—powerful yet comforting.
A visit here would remind anyone of the extraordinary family collection dating back to 1952 that could move even those who typically abstain from alcohol—showcasing remarkable vintages of both white and red varieties alongside chic cangnans gris from La Truffière or ancient grenaches over two decades old resembling Rayas’ legendary old rosé arms mixed with Vite Réal’s great era offerings.
Ultimately though, our choice leans towards Roboul’s delightful young Mourvèdre and Grenache grown on rolled pebbles that present notes of rose petals, black olives, and myrtle—a beautifully clear red that’s as enjoyable as it is elegantly marked by graphite undertones reaffirming Benoit and Sebastien Cancu’s status as stars in Roussillon winemaking. Enjoy it at around 23€.
