Over the last three decades, a significant portion of the 20,000 hectares of vineyards in Roussillon has transitioned to grand cru production, positioning it as a promising region for the future of French viticulture.
However, this modern identity faces challenges from climate change: excessive heat and insufficient rainfall are major concerns. To combat potential desertification, efforts are underway…
The amount of rain in Espira-de-l’Agly is comparable to that of the Sahara, remarks Sébastien Danjou, an outstanding winemaker from his namesake estate. This statement highlights the precarious state of the Roussillon vineyards.
According to David Drilles, president of the Winegrowers’ Union in Pyrénées-Orientales, the 2023 harvest is labeled as the worst in history. In an unprecedented move, some vintners resorted to pruning on July 25 due to alarmingly low rainfall levels.
Typically the region receives about 500 mm of rain each year; last year we only had 265 mm..
Impact of rainfall on the wine
The consequences of the extremely low rainfall are numerous and significantly affect the industry. One major indicator is vine yields. In 2000, we recorded an average yield of 46 hectoliters per hectare, but by 2023, that figure dropped to 26, a decrease of 20.
In a region where cooperative wineries play a crucial role, these drops in production directly impact the financial viability of farms that are already struggling due to ongoing crises.
Influence of heat on the wine character
Additionally, there has been a notable shift in wine quality in recent years. Guillaume Desperri, oenologist and technical director at Terra Mea, highlights these changes: since 1984, red wines have seen an average increase of 3 degrees in alcohol content, pH levels have risen by 0.4 points, and acidity has noticeably decreased.
He adds that the lack of water hampers the plant’s physiological growth, leading to significantly lower absorption of essential minerals. Furthermore, issues such as scalding or burning arise from heat and drought conditions which hinder maturation processes and result in poor berry filling rates and unsatisfactory juice yields along with complications regarding aromatic compounds.
Roussilon – Challenge accepted!
In light of the bleak scenario outlined earlier, Vincent Parc, a winemaker from Banyuls and Collioure, chooses to take a sarcastic approach: The silver lining here is that it’s becoming increasingly hard to find climate skeptics. Even with these environmental challenges, there are potential solutions. Winemakers in this region have been proactive long before 2022!
While there’s no single miraculous fix, they have numerous strategies at their disposal, emphasizes Julien Thiery. Each issue has its own solution; for instance, irrigation seems like a natural response to the shortage of rainfall. Nicolas Raffy raises an ethical concern: This represents a short-sighted perspective. Vine cultivation shouldn’t be prioritized over water conservation. Just across the border, regulations limit water usage to 180 liters per person daily.
Mistakes of the past
The primary beacon of optimism is found in the initiatives focused on plant materials, particularly grape varieties. A winemaker from Calce admits, It was unwise to cultivate northern varieties such as Chardonnay or Merlot. The vineyard’s reorganization now prioritizes indigenous grape types.
Roussilon wines in the future
For the past fifteen years, winemakers have been experimenting with Portuguese, Italian, Spanish, and South American varieties. According to Julien Thiery. Their most promising findings have been with both white and black Grenaches. Local growers are also favoring Carignan and Cinsault. Research is being conducted into rootstocks and vine training techniques as well.
In collaboration with INRA in Bordeaux, efforts are underway to develop and evaluate rootstocks that are more resilient and vigorous enough to adapt to these changing conditions. Nicolas Raffy explains that we are working with R110 and Paulsen rootstocks that suit our terroirs and production requirements well.
Relocation of vinyards
More drastic measures are being considered too; in Collioure and Banyuls, the local winegrowers’ union has started contemplating relocating parts of their vineyards. Under Romuald Peronne’s leadership, experts from Burgundy like Marc Ouvri will conduct a detailed assessment of the terroir over four years, focusing on thermal variations as well as geological factors. Ultimately, it may be necessary to move between 100 to 220 hectares in search of cooler conditions at higher elevations while possibly abandoning southern-facing slopes.
In passing, these plantations should help fight fires, as vines remain one of the best defenses against fire. In the same spirit, Julien Thiery also questions the potential of certain areas of the Middle Valley of La Têt, Conflent, not or little concerned by vine cultivation until now. “There is no great predestined vineyard, there is only the stubbornness of civilization,” said Pierre Veilletet. If the climatic upheavals of these last vintages call into question the Roussillon wine industry, the fact remains that it has an extraordinary potential and the resilience of its winegrowers.
Discover our selection of refreshing vintages:
Château de Rey, AOP Cotes du Roussilon, 2023, white, sisquo
A lively vivacity combined with a fruity acidity of redcurrant and citrus peels. Its fruitiness lingers in your mouth after you have enjoyed it. This white wine is the perfect choice for an aperitif. You can enjoy this blend of white grenache, Roussane and macabeo for around 12 € from your favourite wine shop.
Mas Amiel, AOP Côtes du Roussillon, 2023, Natural Blanc
Dry, mineral, lively: we wanted freshness? We are served A brilliant, allegretto wine! On the palate, a real aromatic explosion, between lime zest and iodine, saline notes. The ideal Roussillon to accompany a beautiful plate. This wine is a blend of white grenache, grey grenache, vermentino and macabeo. Enjoy it for around 15€ from your wine shop
Domaine du Lendemain, IGP Côtes catalanes 2023, white, Brin d’ille
Dynamite, this cannon! Exotic as you want, with notes of fresh pineapple and green papaya. These electric notes are accompanied by a pleasant velvety roundness Between gourmand rich and fruity acidity, it perfectly fits in the sun, on the terrace. It is made from white muscat grapes. Available from online wine merchants or your local wine shop at 14-15€.
Domaine Domanova-Motsanes, IGP Côtes Catalanes, 2021, red, L’Avocat du Diable
Elegant, balanced, we would like to see ocats as frank and dashing more often. The aroma of red fruit is fresh, offering a tasty chew and a mouth-watering finish. Serve a little chilled. Bravo! We are convinced of this blend of syrah, carignan and grenache. Enjoy at 10-12€
This is a truer-than-life cinsault, we appreciate its naughty and translucent body. A Catalan character that you have to know how to tame and air a little before enjoying its aromas of red fruits is red, raspberry peppery notes. Enjoy at around 12€
Delicate aroma of white flowers and rose petals . A white wine which surprises with its lightness and aromatic finesse. It is like a bouquet of fresh air to sip along. Enjoy this white muscat from your local wine shop at prices below 10€
Domaine Paul Meunier, IGP Cotes Catalanes, 2022, white, Fragment
A white wine with oriental allures of ripe clementine. It`s perfectly equilibrated between fruitiness and a refreshing bitterness. After tasting it leaves a very pleasant flavour of orange blossom.
Mas Janell IGP Cotes Catalanes, 2023, C2
Here is a red wine with devastating charm, let us add that the alliance between Viognier and Syrah is an alchemy that makes you fall in love with this wine. The comforting aromas of the black grape variety flirt with notes of citrus zest, pomelo and mandarin. To be enjoyed fresh with friends.
Domaine Augustin, IGP de la Cote Vermeille, red, 2023, Premier Jour
A rich and aromatic palette of flavours which never diverts from its straight line. Enjoy cold with grilled fish.
Domaine Vial-Magnères, AOP Colliours, red, Petit Couscouril, 2021
A very accessible red wine without any frills but a pleasure to drink. The aroma of small berries make it a true pleasure to drink. Enjoy this blend of black grenache, syrah and Carignan at around 15€.
ChristinaDay
Hi, my name is Christina Day, and I am a self-proclaimed wine connoisseur. It is my favorite alcoholic drink, and I enjoy nothing better than kicking back on the sofa after a long week of work to enjoy a glass of wine… or two!
